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What are the Modes?
What is Mode 2 or the X-Mode? and what is Mode 5 or the Ring-Mode? Here are the ‘tea leaf’ patterns that show up when the plates are vibrated using a loudspeaker underneath at a particular frequency - the ‘tap tone’. It is a resonant frequency of the plate as a whole.
On the left here is one of the excellent photos on Joseph Curtin’s website and shows the most important Mode in a belly plate, Mode 5, the ring tone. The black lines are the nodal lines on a violin belly vibrating in Mode 5 at about 350 Hz. The pictures below show Mode 2 in a front plate at about 170 Hz. Have a look too at a BBC web page here that uses “holographic interferometry” (!) to do the same thing - only even better!
These pictures show that when a plate, either the front or back of an instrument is vibrated at one constant frequency then fine sand, tea leaves, sawdust or glitter placed on it will move to areas of the plate that are not moving i.e. not vibrating. This only happens at particular resonan t frequencies, and finding those resonant frequencies is what this is all about. These lines of no motion are called the ‘nodes’, or in this case the ‘nodal lines’. Anti-nodes are where the motion is at a maximum.
In summary: The “nodal lines” are the black lines in the photos and videos where the plate does not vibrate at that particular frequency. So the plate can and must be held somewhere on a nodal line without affecting th e vibrating pattern of that Mode.
There is a good YouTube video by Jonathan McKinley (click on the picture left) that clearly shows plate modes 1, 2 and 5 vibrating as the tea leaves migrate to the lines of zero-vibration - the nodal lines of the violin plate as the vibrating frequency is gradually increased.
Understanding these Modes and their shapes is fundamental to understanding tap tones. You will need to know how to get these Modes vibrating. It was Carleen who first used a speaker placed under a plate at an anti-node, and fed the ‘speaker at various frequencies until a glitter pattern showed up.
These patterns are well illustrated by other website pages to be found in the “Really Useful Links” page.
We can also get the plates vibrating by holding at a point on a nodal line, and tapping at an ‘anti-node’, or a point where the vibration is or will be a maximum: it works well, but there is information lost about the detailed shape of the nodal lines: Carleeen thinks that is important.
Animations of plates vibrating
Borman Violins also shows some fascinating animations of violin and other plates here vibrating in situ on a violin and viola. This can help us understand how the vibration of the belly and back plates vibration modes while free (as we measure them) are linked to how they behave actually in a completed instrument.
I got an email (March 2011) asking if I’d post details of ‘Borman Violins’ classes in varnishing and violin setup. It reads :-
“Terry has had numerous inquiries about providing classes in varnishing and violin setup. We are considering scheduling a class for late Spring or early Summer 2011 and are gauging any further interest. You can read more details about the classes and reviews from former students on our website at http://bormanviolins.com/instrumentmakingclasses.asp .
Please keep in mind that this class is for experienced students only. Terry may require that you submit photos of your instruments before you can be approved for the class.
If you are interested in attending one of these intensive classes at Terry’s shop in Fayetteville, AR, email Shar@bormanviolins.com to get on the list. Class size is limited to 4 people”.
Vibration modes of the completed violin
Getting the tap tones right for the plates will give you a good chance that the resonance modes of the completed violin body will be right - or at least similar to the world’s greatest violins! Have a look here for the resonances of the completed violin body ......
...but what tap tones don’t tell us
Well you wont make a violin that sounds like a £15,000 violin using tap tones like this unless you are very, very, very, very lucky and at least prepared to let an expert choose the (costly) wood to start with.
There is another and much higher level of the art (and science) that the master craftsman has that us mere mortals can only dream of. Others for instance have tried area tuning ( see this fascinating site of Keith Hill’s) and ‘Vigdorchik strip’ tap tuning (see David Langsather’s example here) which I think has great possibilities, but you will need a lot of faith, patience, and a very, very good ear to do it. And much of a lifetime.
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